How Much Does Door Installation Cost in NYC? (2026 Prices)

A door is priced by how much fitting it needs, not by the door itself: the table runs from a same-size slab on the old hinges, to a slab trimmed, mortised and bored to fit, to a prehung door that replaces the jamb. Prices are labor; the door, jamb, casing and hardware are yours to supply.

Same ranges as the door installation page calculator.

Door installation prices in NYC: from $195

Across the jobs in this guide, labor runs $195 – $1,150 — the low end is a single small job, the high end the largest scope in the tables (a whole apartment or a multi-room project where the guide covers one). Every figure is from the current price catalog (calc-2026-09-01), floored at the $150 work minimum; the exact quote is confirmed from your photos before booking, and NYC sales tax is added separately where applicable.

Door installation

Job	Size / scope	Typical NYC price (labor)
Interior slab door (reuse existing frame)	1 door — same size, existing hinge and bore lines up	$195 – $265
Interior slab door (reuse existing frame)	1 door — trim to fit, mortise hinges, bore for hardware	$280 – $390
Interior slab door (reuse existing frame)	2–3 doors	$430 – $610
Pre-hung door (new jamb included)	1 door — opening square, casing reused	$390 – $530
Pre-hung door (new jamb included)	1 door — shim and level, new casing installed	$520 – $700
Pre-hung door (new jamb included)	2–3 doors	$850 – $1,150
Closet door — bi-fold or bypass/sliding	1 opening — bi-fold pair on existing track	$210 – $290
Closet door — bi-fold or bypass/sliding	1 opening — bypass/sliding with new track	$280 – $380
Closet door — bi-fold or bypass/sliding	2–3 closet openings	$430 – $610
Barn door — track and hardware	Single door — track into studs	$310 – $430
Barn door — track and hardware	Single door — header board over plaster/masonry	$490 – $730
Barn door — track and hardware	Double doors or oversized / heavy slab	$535 – $765
Pocket door — slab or track hardware	Re-hang a slab on the existing pocket track	$285 – $410
Pocket door — slab or track hardware	Track, rollers, and hardware replacement	$340 – $475
Pocket door — slab or track hardware	2–3 pocket doors — slab, track and hardware on existing pocket frames	$510 – $725
Storm / screen door (exterior)	Direct swap into an existing storm-door frame	$245 – $340
Storm / screen door (exterior)	New storm door — drill, shim, seal, closer	$340 – $475
Storm / screen door (exterior)	Oversized or out-of-square opening	$475 – $670

What drives the price

Slab vs prehung: a slab is fitted to the frame you already have; a prehung door comes in its own jamb, so the old jamb comes out and the new one is set plumb in the rough opening.
Out-of-square frames: pre-war openings settle and lean, so a slab is scribed to the old frame or a prehung jamb is shimmed further. An oversized or out-of-square storm-door opening is its own tier.
Floor clearance: new flooring, a threshold or a thick rug can mean trimming the bottom of the slab.
What the hardware bolts into: a barn door track goes into studs, or onto a header board first over plaster or masonry; pocket doors are priced on an existing pocket frame.
Quantity: on the slab, prehung, closet and pocket lines, two or three doors in one visit are one tier, so label each door and opening before the visit.
Building rules: co-op and condo COI requirements, permitted work hours and a service-elevator booking for the door delivery decide when the job can be scheduled.

What's included

Measuring the opening and checking the frame, swing direction and floor clearance
Hanging the door, with hinges mortised and the latch and strike fitted
Trimming, boring and new casing in the tiers that name them
A swing and latch test so the door closes without scraping or springing open

What's quoted separately

The door, jamb, casing, hinges and lockset — the parts themselves
Painting, staining and finish trim
Repairs to a loose or rotted jamb, or correcting an uneven floor — flagged with the adjustment needed before booking

When it's not a handyman job

Cutting a new opening, removing or re-framing studs, and anything at DOB permit level goes to a licensed contractor. A pocket-door frame kit is stud framing too, so your contractor builds the frame and we hang the slab and fit the track and hardware once it is in.

How the assessment visit and the work minimum are priced

Photo and text estimates are free — send photos and you get a real range. If the job needs eyes on site first, the assessment visit is $99 and is credited toward the work if you hire us. Actual work starts at the $150 minimum. Repair ASAP LLC is a NYC DCWP-licensed home improvement contractor (License No. 2137199-DCWP) and carries general liability insurance with COI support for co-ops and condos.

Frequently asked questions

Is a prehung door more expensive to install than a slab?

Usually, yes. A slab reuses the frame you already have, so the work is fitting the door to it: trimming, mortising the hinges and boring for the lockset. A prehung door arrives in its own jamb, so the old jamb comes out, the new one is shimmed plumb and level in the opening and the casing is reset. When the existing frame is sound and square, a slab is the cheaper route; when the frame is damaged or badly out of square, prehung is usually the better one.

My door frame is out of square. Will a new door fit?

Usually — few pre-war NYC frames are perfectly square. A slab can be scribed and planed to the frame's actual shape, and a prehung jamb is shimmed until it hangs plumb. Send a photo of the closed door showing the gaps along the top and sides, and the width and height measured at both ends of the opening; that shows which route costs less. A loose or rotted jamb, or a floor that slopes, is flagged with the adjustment needed before we book.

How does a co-op or condo building change a door installation?

Mostly through paperwork and timing. Many buildings ask for a Certificate of Insurance naming the management company, allow work only on weekdays within set hours, and want the service elevator reserved for the door delivery. Repair ASAP LLC provides the COI at no additional cost; send the building's rules with your photos so the visit is booked inside them. The apartment entry door onto the public hallway is typically fire-rated, with building and code limits, so replacing it needs management sign-off before you order anything; lock changes on it are covered in the lock installation guide.

Can you hang a barn door on a plaster or brick wall?

Yes. The track carries the whole weight of the door, so it has to bolt into studs. On pre-war plaster or masonry, where the studs are not where the track needs them, a header board is fixed to the wall first and the track mounts to it — that is the middle barn-door tier in the table. Double doors or an oversized, heavy slab are the top tier.

Do you install pocket doors?

On an existing pocket frame, yes: re-hanging the slab, or replacing the track, rollers and hardware. Building a new pocket into the wall is stud framing, so the frame kit goes to your contractor, and we hang the slab and fit the track and hardware once the frame is in.

Can you replace an exterior entry door or add a storm door on a house?

Yes. In our Staten Island entry door case study, the old storm door, the door and the worn frame came out, a new prehung exterior door was set plumb, level and square, the unused second lock bore was capped and the perimeter was sealed with low-expansion spray foam, in about three and a half hours; a new storm door with an automatic closer then took about four hours, most of it lock and closer prep. An exterior entry door is quoted from photos of both sides of the opening. For storm doors, a direct swap into an existing storm-door frame is the first storm line in the table, and a new storm door that has to be drilled, shimmed and sealed with a closer is the next.

What should I send for a door installation quote?

Photos of the opening and the existing door from both sides, the width and height of the opening, the swing direction, the door type or a product link, a photo of the hinges and latch, and your building's COI or work-hour rules. If you are replacing several doors, label each door and opening — sizes that look identical often are not.